In 2023, Watches & Wonders made a triumphant return to Geneva, marking a momentous occasion for the watch industry. As the world continues to recover from the pandemic, this year's event was eagerly anticipated by watch enthusiasts worldwide. And it did not disappoint. With an impressive line-up of brands showcasing their latest timepieces, Watches & Wonders Geneva once again cemented its position as the premier watch event of the year.
Despite the challenges of the past year, the industry has bounced back in style, and it was evident from the excitement and buzz on the showroom floor. From media to dealers and VIPs, the attendance was impressive, signaling the return of optimism and renewed energy to the world of watches.
Of course, the real stars of the show were the timepieces themselves. Among the new releases, several watches have already captured the hearts and minds of watch aficionados worldwide. From highly exclusive limited editions that are sure to command a premium price tag, to complicated watches that represent the pinnacle of craftsmanship and technology, and even unique one-of-a-kind pieces that are sure to spark hot topic discussions for months to come, these are the dream watches that everyone is talking about.
Patek Philippe
Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R-001 Watch
Patek Philippe has made a significant statement this year by launching an impressive collection of 17 new watches, covering a wide range of styles, including ultra-complicated, complex, formal, leisure, sports, and women's timepieces. Among them, the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R-001 stands out as a true gem.
Despite the brand's reputation for producing watches of unmatched complexity and functionality, the Ref. 5224R-001 demonstrates Patek Philippe's mastery of creating timepieces of extraordinary beauty and elegance. The watch features a 24-hour dual time zone function, which the brand has presented with exquisite simplicity and style. The rose gold-framed digital time scale with neat fonts and three-dimensional hour markers make for a visually stunning and impactful display. The circular scale, small seconds dial, and cylinder-style hands complete the natural and effortless aesthetic.
In a break from tradition, Patek Philippe has placed the noon scale at the 12 o'clock position of the dial, making it easier for wearers to tell the time. Moreover, the brand has replaced the local time adjustment button with a patented adjustment system, which allows users to adjust the second time zone by pulling out the crown halfway and moving it forward or backward by one hour increments.
In summary, Patek Philippe has once again demonstrated its exceptional skill and artistry in watchmaking with the Calatrava travel time dual time zone watch Ref. 5224R-001, creating a masterpiece that combines elegance, functionality, and innovation.
Ref. 5224R-001 has a diameter of 42 mm and is made of rose gold. The manual movement has a 42-hour power reserve.
Parmigiani Fleurier
Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph Watch
Parmigiani Fleurier has been pushing the boundaries of restrained and concise aesthetics in watch design, achieving new heights in the past two years. Their watches are based on the golden ratio principle, featuring a large amount of blank space, concise lines, and an almost picky attention to detail. Last year's Tonda PF split-second two-time watch was a big hit, showcasing how the complex split-second function can be simple and elegant. This year, Parmigiani Fleurier takes things a step further with the Tonda PF split-seconds chronograph, introducing a hidden golden chronograph minute hand under the normal minute hand.
Unlike traditional chronograph watches , this design is better suited for timing things that must be completed within a set amount of time, such as diving return time. The chronograph minute hand can be fast forwarded every five minutes using the pusher on the 8 o’clock lug, and then advanced by one minute with the pusher on the 10 o’clock lug. Once the timing time in minutes is set, the timing is completed when the normal minute hand reaches the golden minute hand.
The most interesting feature of this watch is that regardless of whether the timing is completed or the normal minute hand has exceeded the number of minutes counted by the golden pointer, pressing the button on the crown will immediately synchronize the golden pointer with the minute hand and hide it beneath. While this timing function may not be useful in everyday life, it showcases Parmigiani Fleurier's low-key and fun-filled ingenuity and technology, which is what makes watch enthusiasts obsessed.
This watch has a diameter of 42 mm, a stainless steel case with a platinum bezel, and a micro-rotor automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 Watch
Jaeger-LeCoultre has embraced the "golden ratio" as the inspiration for its latest design of the Reverso, a classic series that has been a staple in the watch world. The Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 is equipped with the Jaeger-LeCoultre 179 movement and a fourth-generation multi-axis tourbillon specially designed for the Reverso series. This tourbillon is a true marvel, having undergone years of refinement to make it small enough to fit into a wristwatch size of 51.2 x 31 mm and only 13.63 mm thick. It was a technical challenge to fit it closely with the watch's rectangular case profile while ensuring the overall slimness and comfort of the watch. The dial design is equally fascinating, with a multi-level dial on the front and dark blue lacquer with golden geometric lines on the movement bridges on both sides. The back is hollowed out, revealing golden bridges that are also decorated with dark blue lacquer, creating a strong architectural aesthetic. The Reverso's unconventional square case breaks the mold and creates diversity and possibilities no less than that of a round watch. Its special flip design adds an element of surprise, revealing the beauty of the other side when flipped over.
This masterpiece is equipped with a 179 manual movement, a 40-hour power reserve, a rose gold case, and is limited to 10 pieces.
Vacheron Constantin
Les Cabinotiers Dual moon Grand Complication Watch
Vacheron Constantin's presentation this year revolves around the "retrograde" function, which is featured in several new models, including the unique Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication. The watch incorporates a retrograde jump date display to complement its beautiful north and south moon phase display and other 11 functions. The watch is made of platinum and showcases the intricacies of celestial mechanics with a 2755 TMRCCQP manual winding movement, which seamlessly integrates 774 parts into a complex and precise mechanical structure that combines time display and astronomical complications. The front of the watch features hour and minute indications, precise moon phases and moon age displays in the southern and northern hemispheres, perpetual calendar, retrograde date indication, and minute repeater, while the back showcases a tourbillon, star chart, and sidereal time display. Although the watch's astronomical functions may not be directly relevant to our daily lives, they inspire our imagination of the vast galaxy and our reverence for time.
The watch's aesthetic integration by Vacheron Constantin offers a unique experience of the invisible connection between the universe, time, watches, and people.
Rolex
Daytona Platinum Watch
Rolex has introduced a rare platinum version of the Daytona watch, which can be identified by its ice blue dial and maroon bezel. What's more surprising is that this watch has a transparent back case, which is a first for the Daytona line. Celebrating its 60th anniversary, Rolex equipped this watch with a brand new 4131 automatic movement, featuring an 18K gold oscillating weight, a Paraflex cushioning device, and a Chronergy escapement system. With improved ball bearings in the perpetual oscillating weight, this watch has a power reserve of 72 hours and an average daily error of plus or minus two seconds. In addition to these updates, the time scale has become more slender, and the metal frame of the ceramic bezel matches the case material. Rolex has also redesigned the middle case to refract light elegantly, creating a more harmonious and refined style.
Chanel
J12 ECLIPSE WATCH BOX SET
Chanel has unleashed its creativity in its watch collection this year, with the INTERSTELLAR limited series drawing inspiration from science fiction and time travel and applying it to its J12, PREMIÈRE, BOY FRIEND, and CODE COCO series. However, the most eye-catching piece for me is the set of 8 ECLIPSE watch boxes displayed in the window. These eight watches are made of black and white precision ceramics, a material that Chanel has long been familiar with. But what is truly impressive is Chanel's creativity in using different proportions of black and white ceramics to simulate the progression of a solar eclipse, from bright to dark, resulting in a visually stunning effect.
The set is sold as a whole, with all watches measuring 38 mm in diameter and equipped with self-winding movements that offer 72-hour power reserve.
For the above watches, which one do you think is the best in your mind?
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